Experience the Thrill of Winter: Smelt Fishing on Maine's Frozen Rivers
The Ice-Bound Eastern River: A Test of Skill and Patience
The journey began on the frozen expanse of the Eastern River in Dresden, Maine, where the author and Chris Russell engaged in the intricate art of smelt fishing. Inside a cozy shanty, equipped with numerous lines dropped through an ice-cut trough, the experience quickly revealed itself as a test of skill rather than mere luck. The initial moments were filled with anticipation, akin to a musician awaiting their cue, highlighting the focused attention required in this unique fishing method.
First Bites and Early Lessons: Understanding the Rhythms of Smelt Fishing
An unexpected cry of “You’ve got a bite!” abruptly shifted the author from contemplative observation to immediate action. Despite missing the first opportunity, subsequent attempts led to a growing understanding of the fishing dynamics. Chris's swift success, landing three smelt, underscored the subtle expertise needed. This initial exchange set the competitive yet instructive tone for the day, with promises of more intense action as the day progressed.
The Smelt and Its Habitat: Unveiling the Secrets of Osmerus mordax
The adventure transitioned into an educational exploration of the American smelt, also known as Osmerus mordax. These slender fish, typically eight to ten inches long with greenish backs and silvery sides, are abundant along the Atlantic Coast. Historically, indigenous peoples harvested them in vast quantities. During winter, smelt migrate to brackish rivers and bays to spawn, becoming a prime target for both commercial and recreational anglers using various methods, including nets and lines.
A Frozen Landscape: Arrival at the Smelt Camps on the Kennebec Tributary
The expedition led to the Eastern River, a significant tributary of Maine’s Kennebec River, specifically to the renowned smelt camps operated by Chester Burton and Leland Smith. Arriving on a cold late February afternoon, the landscape was blanketed in deep snow, with formidable drifts accentuating the icy river. The choice to walk the quarter-mile to the camps, rather than attempting to drive the precarious icy road, proved to be a prudent decision, offering a broader perspective of the bustling fishing village.
The Smelt Fishing Village: A Community on Ice
From a high vantage point overlooking the river, the collection of 48 shanties appeared as a small, vibrant settlement. Arranged in rows, these structures, ranging in color from faded gray to bright red, were strategically placed over the river’s main channel, where the smelt were most active. Nearby, a larger office building and a snack shack served as central hubs, providing essential services and a gathering point for the fishing community.
Pre-Tide Preparations: Insights from Leland Smith
Upon reaching the shanties, the author and Chris encountered Leland Smith and Leon Clancy, who explained that peak fishing activity would commence with the high tide around five o’clock. This provided an opportunity for the author to gather information about the smelt, the seasonal patterns, and the optimal fishing conditions. Leland, a seasoned worm digger, shared the arduous nature of his work, highlighting the dedication required to sustain the bait supply for local and coastal fishermen.
The Rigors of Camp Management: Maintaining a Winter Fishery
Leland also elaborated on the demanding task of operating the smelt camps. Heavy snowfalls frequently caused the tidal ice to sink, necessitating the laborious process of jacking up all 48 shanties to prevent them from freezing in. Beyond this, daily chores included clearing snow from roofs, plowing access roads, hauling in provisions, and repairing damage from the harsh winter elements. These efforts ensured that fishermen could enjoy a hassle-free experience, renting shanties at a reasonable cost rather than enduring the complexities of ownership.
Setting Up Camp: The Unique Interior of a Smelt Shanty
After a brief but dramatic fire-starting incident by Leon, the author finally entered their assigned shanty. Measuring approximately 8 by 9 feet, it was furnished with a stove, seating boxes, and a table. A crucial feature was the rectangular opening in the floor, which provided direct access to the tidal currents beneath the thick ice. The shanty, lit by an electric light and specialized fishing lights, offered a surprisingly comfortable and functional environment for the pursuit of smelt.
The Art of the Bite: Indicators and Jigging Techniques
The most intriguing aspect of the shanty’s setup was the ingenious fishing apparatus. Nineteen lines, each adorned with a conical sinker and a baited hook, were suspended from a jigging mechanism. Small wooden chips tied to each line served as bite indicators, spinning subtly when a fish took the bait. Leon demonstrated the technique of gentle jigging, a rhythmic motion that stimulated the lines and attracted the smelt. Records of past catches scrawled on the walls further fueled the anticipation, showcasing the potential for prolific hauls.
The Evening Rush: A Festival on the Ice
As the late afternoon faded into evening, the smelt camps transformed into a lively hub of activity. Fishermen, arriving individually or in groups, created a festive atmosphere. The scene, illuminated by floodlights and filled with laughter, chatter, and the aroma of woodsmoke, resembled a vibrant carnival. This growing crowd signaled the imminent arrival of the smelt schools, promising a bountiful catch for those patiently waiting.
The Smelt Surge: A Frenzy of Activity
With the onset of the smelt run, the shanty became a whirlwind of action. Chris expertly reeled in fish, prompting the author to keenly observe the subtle movements of the wooden indicators. The initial confusion about the "spinning" of the chips was resolved as the author discovered that even slight vibrations indicated a bite. For the next ten minutes, both fishermen were engrossed in hauling lines, re-baiting hooks, and jigging, resulting in a substantial pile of a dozen smelt, solidifying the experience as a collaborative effort rather than a competition.
Culinary Delights: Fresh Smelt on the Ice
Following the intense fishing flurry, Chris initiated the author into the culinary phase of smelt fishing. While the author cleaned the fresh catch, Chris prepared a skillet, melting butter over the hot stove. The smelt were then fried to a golden crisp, creating a delectable meal. Captain John Smith’s historical account of smelt’s rich flavor was echoed, confirming the exceptional taste of these freshly caught fish, leaving only heads and bones in their wake.
Nightlife on the Ice: Community and Camaraderie
As the fishing continued, the author ventured outside to experience the unique nightlife of the smelt camps. Despite a mishap of stepping into icy water, the vibrant scene offered a warm sense of community. The snack shack buzzed with activity, and the shanties resonated with diverse voices, music, and the aroma of woodsmoke and cooking fish. Fishermen from various backgrounds, including Irish, French-Canadian, and Italian, shared stories, drinks, and a common passion for smelting, turning the frozen river into a melting pot of camaraderie.
The Grand Finale: A Night of Abundance and Departure
The night culminated in a massive smelt run around 10 o'clock, with fish hitting in droves. Inspired by the success of others, the author returned to the shanty, joining Chris in the exhilarating process of continuous catching and re-baiting. As the tide receded and the action gradually tapered off, fishermen began to depart, their footsteps crunching on the ice and their vehicles struggling through the frozen terrain. Despite the lingering presence of dedicated anglers, the author and Chris, having caught ample fish, concluded their memorable night and journeyed back to Augusta, enriched by the unique experience of smelt fishing.