In a unique blend of visual art and music, designer Martine Rose and filmmaker Sharna Osborne have created an evocative film installation titled "Everything Must Change." This multimedia piece, showcased at Sadie Coles in London until February 24, 2025, marks a significant milestone in their collaborative journey. The project began with a short film inspired by the works of Robert Mapplethorpe and Mark E Smith, featuring elements of 70s erotica and vibrant color palettes. Over time, this collaboration evolved into a more personal endeavor, inviting iconic musician Jimmy Somerville to participate. The result is a mesmerizing three-channel video installation that invites viewers to immerse themselves in an introspective experience, blending nostalgia with contemporary aesthetics.
The origins of this collaboration trace back to 2016 when Rose and Osborne first joined forces for a short film. Initially, the duo drew inspiration from the provocative photography of Robert Mapplethorpe and the raw energy of Mark E Smith’s music. This early work featured striking visuals and a soundtrack by the 70s band Smokey, serving as a launchpad for Rose’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. The film was characterized by its vivid colors and unconventional scenes, including a man polishing his shoes and another dancing on the street—a testament to the pair's avant-garde approach.
Building on this foundation, Rose and Osborne sought to create something more intimate and emotionally resonant. In the months following their initial collaboration, they conceived a new project that would delve deeper into personal expression. This time, they extended an invitation to Jimmy Somerville, the frontman of Bronski Beat, to lend his voice to the project. The resulting film, "Everything Must Change," features Somerville performing a rendition of the song originally recorded by Bernard Ighner in 1974. The choice of Somerville was not only a nod to his iconic status but also a reflection of the profound impact his music had on Rose during her formative years.
The installation itself is a multi-sensory experience. Presented on mammoth-sized LED screens, the film immerses viewers in a world of shifting colors and textures. From the glaring green and white stripes reminiscent of retro television static to softer, homely tones, the visuals are complemented by Somerville’s hauntingly beautiful rendition of "Everything Must Change." One scene captures a man standing on a plinth, dressed in an oversized suit that epitomizes Rose’s signature style, while birds, fruits, and domestic settings add layers of meaning to the narrative. The combination of these elements creates a soothing yet deeply engaging atmosphere, encouraging viewers to pause and reflect.
Rose’s decision to collaborate with Somerville stemmed from a transformative experience she had at Sadler’s Wells, where she witnessed a dancer performing in a sequined suit under a spotlight. The powerful imagery of this moment stayed with her, influencing the design choices for "Everything Must Change." The sequin suit worn by Somerville in the film echoes this memory, symbolizing the intersection of fashion, music, and performance. Despite the challenges of reaching out to Somerville, he embraced the project wholeheartedly, bringing his distinctive voice and artistic vision to life in the film.
The installation at Sadie Coles offers visitors a rare opportunity to engage with art in a deeply personal way. Seated on child-sized plastic chairs, spectators are invited to lose themselves in the immersive environment. The gallery space becomes a sanctuary, where the boundaries between reality and imagination blur. For Rose, this project represents a culmination of her creative journey, bridging the gap between fashion, music, and visual art. It serves as a reminder that change is inevitable, and through it, new possibilities emerge.