In the realm of high horology, a new paradigm has emerged with the Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon, a timepiece that masterfully unites the enduring principles of the Golden Ratio with revolutionary material science. This creation stands as a testament to the young brand's audacious vision, delivering a watch that is not only visually striking but also engineered for unparalleled lightness and resilience, reshaping expectations for contemporary luxury sports watches.
Detailing the Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon Tourbillon's Innovative Design
Founded in 2021 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Bianchet has swiftly carved a niche by specializing in tonneau-shaped timepieces that embody a harmonious blend of advanced materials and intricate mechanical architecture. The brand’s design philosophy is deeply rooted in the Golden Ratio (1.618), a principle that subtly influences every aspect, from the elegant curves of its cases to the precise arrangement of its bridges and even the kinetic motion of its rotors. The recent introduction of the B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon marked a significant milestone, being the first instance of an independent brand successfully integrating a monobloc carbon case with a fully carbon bracelet in a tonneau-shaped sports watch.
This horological marvel features a meticulously engineered case, measuring 40mm in width, 47.39mm in length, and a mere 8.9mm in thickness. It is entirely constructed from a high-density carbon composite, reinforced with vulcanized rubber inserts for enhanced structural integrity. The case is composed of 500 layers of compressed carbon fiber, each precisely angled at 45 degrees to maximize both strength and shock resistance. This intricate construction results in a remarkably robust yet incredibly light timepiece, capable of withstanding forces up to 5,000G and offering water resistance down to 50 meters.
Remarkably, the UltraFino Carbon weighs a mere 32 grams without its strap, a weight that even titanium struggles to match. When paired with its integrated carbon bracelet, the total weight increases to just 62 grams, or 52 grams with the alternative rubber strap. Each watch boasts a unique aesthetic due to the carbon's distinctive layered grain, creating an organic pattern. A vibrant rubber gasket, available in shades of sky blue, crimson red, or pristine white, encircles the case and crown, providing a striking contrast to the dark carbon framework.
The watch’s captivating openworked dial offers a mesmerizing glimpse into the heart of the timepiece: Bianchet’s proprietary UT01 automatic flying tourbillon movement. The skeletonized design is characterized by its symmetrical arrangement, with the suspended mainspring barrel positioned at 12 o’clock and the sophisticated tourbillon carriage gracefully rotating at 6 o’clock. The dial’s intricate structure showcases titanium components that have undergone a meticulous process of soft brushing and sandblasting, finished with a black PVD treatment and hand-polished chamfers. The hour and minute hands are equipped with luminescent tips, harmoniously matched to the color of the case gasket, while applied hour markers ensure optimal readability against the technical backdrop.
At the core of the UltraFino Carbon lies the Calibre UT01, an automatic, ultra-thin flying tourbillon movement, designed and manufactured in-house by Bianchet. With a thickness of just 3.85mm and weighing only 8 grams, it stands as one of the lightest automatic tourbillon movements currently available. Crafted entirely from titanium, it features the aforementioned suspended mainspring barrel and a precise one-minute tourbillon with a 2.66mm cage. Operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, the movement provides a substantial 60-hour power reserve.
A distinguishing feature is the gold rotor, whose design is inspired by the elegant Fibonacci spirals. This rotor efficiently winds bidirectionally while maintaining peripheral balance to effectively absorb shocks. The movement's finishing adheres to the highest standards of haute horlogerie, with black PVD-coated bridges exhibiting a refined combination of sandblasted and satin-brushed textures, complemented by polished bevels that are visible from both the dial side and the case back.
The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon is presented with a choice of two sophisticated attachment options: a high-density carbon bracelet secured by a titanium folding buckle, offering seamless structural continuity and exceptional lightness, or a natural vulcanized rubber strap, also equipped with a titanium folding buckle, whose color perfectly matches the case gasket. Both options feature a convenient quick-release system. The integration between the case and the bracelet is flawlessly executed, preserving the fluid tonneau profile that defines the UltraFino’s distinctive design.
Priced at CHF 65,500 (excluding taxes), this remarkable timepiece comes with a comprehensive five-year warranty. While a significant investment, this price point reflects the extraordinary craftsmanship and innovative use of materials, especially for a tourbillon watch constructed entirely from carbon. It represents a noteworthy value proposition within the exclusive world of high-end watchmaking.
This impressive timepiece exemplifies how innovative design and advanced materials can redefine luxury watchmaking. Its exceptional lightness, coupled with robust construction and a highly sophisticated movement, positions it as a significant achievement in contemporary horology. It serves as a reminder that the pursuit of excellence often lies at the intersection of tradition and avant-garde innovation, offering collectors not just a time-telling device, but a wearable piece of art and engineering marvel.