This article delves into the distinctive creative philosophy of Lemaire, a fashion house led by Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran. The brand's aesthetic is deeply rooted in Parisian urban culture, enriched by a global perspective that values authenticity and the narrative capacity of clothing. The designers underscore the significance of embracing diverse influences, drawing inspiration from various art forms and everyday observations to craft garments that are both timeless and deeply personal.
Lemaire Designers Unveil the Art of Storytelling Through Fashion
In the vibrant Marais district of Paris, within the historic walls of the Hôtel Pierrard on Place des Vosges, the headquarters of the Lemaire fashion brand pulsates with creative energy. Here, in 2025, co-creative directors Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran shared insights into their design ethos. They discussed the brand's origins, which Lemaire first launched in 1991, and its evolution with Tran joining in 2010 after Lemaire's stints at Lacoste and Hermès. Their conversation touched upon the narrative power of garments, the crucial role of photographic imagery in their creative process, and the timeless allure of elegance. Their retail footprint extends across Paris, Seoul, Tokyo, and Chengdu, with a new store anticipated in Shanghai in 2026.
During their interview, conducted by Alistair O’Neill, the Parisian duo challenged the stereotypical portrayal of French fashion, often caricatured as an "Emily in Paris" fantasy. They articulated their vision of French style as a "mixed fabric," drawing strength from the rich diversity of their upbringing in the multicultural neighborhoods of Belleville and northeastern Paris, influenced by African, Middle Eastern, Maghrebi, Chinese, and Vietnamese cultures. Tran highlighted comfort as paramount, which paradoxically leads to an inherently chic and dignified aesthetic. Lemaire added that they also draw inspiration from the intellectual bourgeoisie, who embody a classical yet free-spirited approach to style, characterized by an apparent effortlessness.
The discussion further explored their unconventional approach to fashion, likening it to a "cheap chic" philosophy—a collage of diverse influences from around the globe and different historical periods. Tran described their design process as an "exquisite corpse," where traditional garment forms are blended with unexpected cultural elements, such as a trench coat paired with a Vietnamese áo dài or an oriental skirt with a Western cowboy shirt, aiming to blur cultural distinctions. Lemaire emphasized that genuine style possesses an inherent mystery, resisting easy categorization. The designers revealed their constant engagement with photographic images and cinema, viewing them as vital documents for inspiration, preferring a focused selection of key works by photographers like August Sander and Avedon, and filmmakers such as Krzysztof Kieślowski, over fleeting trends.
A significant aspect of their work is the exploration of how clothing interacts with real-world movement and everyday life. Tran recounted a photography project in Hanoi, Vietnam, where Osma Harvilahti captured scooter riders navigating the city, showcasing how people adapt their clothing for protection and mobility. This project, while audaciously associating Vietnam with luxury, aimed to reveal the freedom and sociological aspects of dressing. Lemaire noted that true style is often observed in the subtle gestures and movements of individuals in the street, rather than in static poses. This deep engagement with the human experience and the inherent stories told by clothes forms the core of their brand's identity, influencing not only their collections but also their publishing ventures, which seek to honor long-standing creative relationships and explore diverse artistic expressions.
This illuminating conversation with Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran offers a refreshing perspective on the fashion industry. Their commitment to authenticity, cultural fusion, and the narrative power of clothing challenges the fleeting nature of trends, encouraging a more thoughtful and conscious engagement with personal style. Their design philosophy, rooted in a nuanced understanding of history, diversity, and human experience, serves as an inspiring blueprint for a fashion world that values substance and storytelling above superficiality.